Porch & Deck Building

A homeowner calls about a porch or deck when they realize their backyard is unusable for half the year. They want a screened room that keeps out mosquitoes and wasps, or a deck where they can set out chairs without sinking into mud. The existing slab or stoop is too small, and the sun bakes the back of the house. They need a structure that adds living space without the cost of a full addition.

We start by digging holes for concrete footings below the frost line, then set posts on galvanized brackets. The frame is built with pressure-treated lumber, joists spaced 16 inches on center, and decking screwed down with hidden fasteners if composite is chosen. For screened porches, we install a roof system, typically standing-seam metal or shingles, then staple 18-mesh screening onto the framing and trim it with cedar or PVC.

Size drives the material quantity and labor hours, but access matters too. A backyard only reachable through a narrow gate means every board and sheet of plywood gets carried by hand. Soil condition changes the footing depth: clay holds water and requires deeper piers, while sandy soil drains fast. Composite decking costs more than wood but needs no staining. Weather delays framing if rain soaks the ground, and high winds stop roofing work.

On the day we arrive, we lay plywood and tarps over the lawn and any shrubs near the work area. We set up a portable saw with a dust bag and a debris chute for roof tear-off. At the end of each day we sweep nails and screws off the ground, stack lumber on pallets, and cover the pile with a tarp. You should move patio furniture and potted plants away from the build zone before we back the trailer in.